Celine’s Winter 2024 collection, unveiled as “La Collection de l’Arc de Triomphe,” is a powerful statement, a meticulously crafted homage to the iconic photographer Richard Avedon, masterfully orchestrated by creative director Hedi Slimane. Designed in the sweltering heat of July 2023 and dramatically filmed amidst the Parisian chill of December 2023, the collection transcends the seasonal limitations of its title, offering a timeless elegance that resonates far beyond the winter months. It’s a collection that whispers of history, while simultaneously projecting a distinctly modern sensibility, a hallmark of Slimane’s tenure at the helm of Celine.
The influence of Avedon is subtly yet powerfully woven throughout the collection. The stark, graphic lines and the focus on individual character, so characteristic of Avedon's photography, are mirrored in the clean silhouettes and the deliberate styling of the garments. The collection isn’t a direct imitation; rather, it captures the spirit of Avedon's work – the unflinching gaze, the celebration of individuality, and the ability to extract profound beauty from simplicity. This is evident in the choice of models, the stark yet evocative setting of the film, and the carefully considered details of each piece. The emphasis on black and white photography in the campaign further solidifies this connection, echoing the iconic monochromatic aesthetic of Avedon’s most celebrated works.
The collection itself showcases Slimane’s signature blend of rock-and-roll rebellion and refined Parisian elegance. Think sharp tailoring, impeccably crafted leather goods, and a subtle yet undeniable sense of cool nonchalance. The colour palette is largely monochromatic, punctuated by pops of vibrant colour that serve to highlight the overall sophistication. Black, white, and grey dominate, reflecting the stark beauty often found in Avedon’s portraits, while touches of deep burgundy, emerald green, and sapphire blue add unexpected depth and richness. The fabrics range from luxurious cashmere and silk to crisp cottons and durable leathers, showcasing a commitment to both timeless quality and contemporary design.
The outerwear is particularly noteworthy. Oversized blazers with sharp shoulders, impeccably tailored coats, and sleek leather jackets dominate the collection, showcasing Slimane’s mastery of tailoring. These pieces are not merely functional garments; they are statements, extensions of the individual wearing them. They speak of confidence, power, and a quiet sense of rebellion – all hallmarks of Avedon's subjects and, indeed, of the Celine woman.
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